Highlights of The Kenyan Coast: Diani, Kilifi, Watamu, & Lamu

Nikole
7 min readFeb 28, 2024
highlights of the kenyan coast

The Kenyan coast is about 4–8 hours from the capital city, Nairobi. Bordering the Indian Ocean, the coastline stretches from the Islamic vehicle-free wonder that is Lamu down to Diani, Kenya’s very own Zanzibar.

After spending a little over two weeks in every spot highlighted throughout this article, I can safely say the Kenyan coast captured my soul.

From parties, safaris, marine life, and festivals, here are the highlights of the Kenyan coast featuring Diani, Kilifi, Watamu, and Lamu.

Diani

highlights of the kenyan coast

Diani has it all — from backpackers’ paradise coves to luxury spa hotels. White sand beaches give Thailand a run for its money.

And the best part?

Diani retains a unique balance of local and international — a winning combo that attracts all kinds of tourists!

Where should I stay in Diani?

On a budget?: Diani Backpackers

On a mid-range budget?: Nomad Beach Resort

Treat yourself: Baobab Spa & Resort

What to do in Diani:

  • Stroll down Diani Beach to watch (or learn?!) kitesurfers.
  • Take a bumpy tuk-tuk ride to Secret Beach before the tide comes in — this place is literal paradise on earth.
  • Enjoy the beach restaurant Salty Squid with delicious local catches and a good selection of wine.
  • Go to Pallet Cafe for some quiet time, it’s run by the deaf and mute and has a sister branch in Nairobi! Learn how to order in sign language.
  • Don’t miss an iconic Diani Backpackers party (Thursdays to Sundays). This is THE place to meet fellow travelers and locals alike.
  • Feed a bushbaby every day at 7pm at Stilts. You can also feed yourself here while you’re at it as it’s a restaurant.
  • Watch the sunset at Shimba Hills. The views here give you an inhibited view of the protected reserve — green, green green, you can’t miss this!
  • Go dolphin watching at Funzi Island.
  • Ride a canoe down the Kongo River at sunset.
  • Visit the Africa Pool — a natural pool in the shape of Africa during low tide! You can swim here, but I’d recommend bringing some water shoes as there are A LOT of sea urchins.
  • Buy fresh local lobster at Tiwi Beach and cook, camp, and swim directly on Diani’s most beautiful beach.

Kilifi

If Diani hosts a variety of backpackers, then Kilifi similarly caters to the budget, solo traveler.

The main difference?

There’s a spiritual community brewing in Kilifi that’ll make every moment magic. Think: Backpackers, but with flowers in their hair.

Where to stay in Kilifi

On a budget?: Distant Relatives (Eco Lodge)

On a mid-range budget?: Baobab Sea Lodge

Treat yourself: Kilifi Beach Bay Resort

What to do in Kilifi:

  • Lounge by the beach at Salty’s Kitesurf Village or get a kitesurf lesson! (I lounged and drank White Caps, but I support you all the way!).
  • Try jaba juice (a khat-based drink) from a local seller or Mizizi Bistro. But don’t do it after sunset — khat stuff is completely legal but it will keep you up longer than an espresso.
  • Go to The Vegan Basket for food. Just go. You won’t regret it.
  • Swim in Kilifi Creek at night to see the bioluminescent plankton! You can access this utterly gorgeous experience from Distant Relatives.
  • Speaking of — Go to a Distant Relatives party on the weekend! DJs and live bands always bring the heat here.
  • Attend Kilifi Wellness Festival to get entrenched in spiritualism.
  • Have sundowners at African Pavillion Restaurant.
  • Chill out on the hammocks and vibe to the tunes at The Lichthouse bar and restaurant.

Watamu

Where do I stay in Watamu?

On a budget?: Nyumba Ya Afrika B&B

On a mid-range budget?: Temple Point Resort

Treat yourself: Watamu Treehouse

What to do in Watamu:

  • Take a paddleboard adventure through the mangroves at Mida Creek.
  • Do an early morning meditation at Watamu Treehouse with its owner, Paul, and easily fly into a yoga session at the same location.
  • Grab a few drinks at Lichthouse — this is a Watamu classic! You can even swim here and (I’ll be honest) I spent all day lounging in their netted hammocks.
  • Watch a film on the big screen at the (free!) open-air cinema at Temple Resort.
  • Enjoy authentic Italian ice cream at Non Solo Gelato.
  • Grab the BEST pizza on the coast at Papa Remo.
  • Visit the protected Arukobe Forest Sanctuary to learn more about the flora and fauna of Kenya’s coastline, including what’s endangered.
  • Watch the sunset over a creek at the Crab Shack and eat fresh seafood literally on the water.

Lamu

If I had to sum up Lamu in two words? Dhows and donkeys, of course!

Lamu is car-free so expect to travel everywhere by foot or boat (you can take a boda from Lamu to Shela but be warned it drives through the sand). Famous for hosting the Lamu Yoga Festival and Cultural Fesitval in the months October to December, Lamu is dubbed THE festival island.

Despite this, the island still retains its authentic Swahili vibes. Meaning, old Oman-style houses, walking barefoot, and plenty of friendly khat-chewing locals to guide you safely through the narrow (and oft harrowing) streets.

Where should I stay in Lamu?

Controversial, but I would suggest staying only in Shela. Lamu town is a bit more hectic but traditionally Swahili, so it depends what kind of holiday you’re looking for. The beaches are more in Shela, so you would have to take a 15 minute dhow here anyway if you’re looking for some sand.

So here’s where to stay in Shela!

On a budget?: Jannataan Hotel

On a mid-range budget?: Shela Bahari Hotel

Treat yourself: Peponi Hotel

What to do in Shela/ Lamu:

Lamu

  • Have the best coffee in La Dulce Turo in Lamu.
  • Hire a local guide to show you around Lamu — the town is a UNESCO Heritage Site and worth seeing through the eyes of a local.
  • Go on a sunset dhow sail BUT DON’T OVERPAY. This shouldn’t cost you more than the equivalent of $20pp however Lamu sailors are notorious hustlers.

Shela

shela kenyan coast
  • Visit the Shela Women’s Association to buy handmade aprons, local cookbooks, or enjoy their tasty samosas.
  • THERE IS A MAN SELLING TUNA SAMOSAS ON SHELA BEACH. His name is Mohammed and his Samosas are AMAZING!!!
  • Grab sundowners at Peponi’s in Shela. Food here also never disappoints.
  • Go across to Manda Bay and chill at the beach here. But beware of sand flies as they bite! For a luxury day out go to Majlis Resort in Manda Bay and use their pool for a small fee (which changes per season).
  • Explore the sand dunes behind Shela. It’s the only stretch of beach in Kenya with this kind of topography.
  • Try the coconut beans at Sea Suq in Shela.
  • The fish curry at Bahari Restaurant is the BEST FISH CURRY in Shela.
  • Enjoy a vegan ice cream at Gelamu while ALSO browsing the handmade bags in the back (made from recycled local materials by the Amani workshop).
  • Get a massage at Natural Lamu Spa with all-natural and organic ingredients.
  • Go to the Lamu Yoga Festival in October run by the Banana House to experience yoga instructors from all over the world, wellness workshops, and community events (this was the best cacao ceremony I’ve ever experienced!).
  • Watch donkey racing at the annual Lamu Cultural Festival. Dates differ per year but it’s usually the last week of November.
Lamu donkey racing at the annual Cultural Festival in November

Wrap Up

There’s no shortage of experiences you are privy to when exploring the Kenyan coast.

It’s why I loved it so much, and will keep going back.

Whether you’re in the mood for food, water sports, thrill-seeking adventures, animals, nature sanctuaries, parties, slow beach days, boat trips, snorkeling, yoga, festivals, you NAME it — Diani, Kilifi, Watamu, and Lamu are for you.

When it comes to tourism to Kenya, the coast is often overlooked.

But if eco-conscious tourism continues to spread from Kenya’s national parks to its coast, then visitors will find a community that is just as much dreamer as it is beach bum.

I loved every minute I spent in each location. Compared to Nairobi the coast is safe, people are open and welcoming, and around every bend is the opportunity to catch you breath at the beauty of this coastal life.

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Nikole

Interested in identity politics, and the stories that make us human. Personal blog. See copywriting services at https://nikolewintermeier.online/.