What to do in Zanzibar: 9 pinch-me moments I had on the Island of Spice

Nikole
8 min readJun 26, 2023
View of Bill Gates’ private island, Mnemba

If, like me, you’ve had Zanzibar on your list for a while and are struggling to decide whether to make that leap across the Tanzanian peninsula or not, here’s the final (gentle, I promise) shove you may need.

I spent two weeks in Zanzibar and am still reeling from the magic of this so-called island of spice.

‘Hakuna Matata!’ — is forever on my lips.

It means no worries, and to visit Zanzibar you need to put your worries (and perhaps lack of patience) aside.

On this East African island staring out into the Indian Ocean, you will no doubt cultivate an aura of bliss and the thought will no doubt crop up: Is this really my life?

That’s at least how I felt, so I wanted to share with you my 9 pinch-me moments.

Especially if you’re looking for what to do in Zanzibar — look no further!

Here are those 9 moments in a nutshell:

  1. Snorkel with wild dolphins
  2. DIY cocktails with a view of The Rock
  3. Catch the tide at Mtende Beach in the South
  4. Spot monkeys endemic to Zanzibar at Jozani Forest
  5. Kitesurf at Paje Beach (or just watch them go!
  6. Swim in an ancient cave at Kuva Cave
  7. Enjoy a traditional Swahili dinner and music at Emerson on Hurumzi
  8. Visit the slave market in Stone Town
  9. Feed a one-hundred-year-old tortoise on Prison Island

1. Swim with wild dolphins

Wild dolphins off the coast near Nungwi

Full disclaimer: I did this activity in the low season, so there were fewer boats and people. I have heard stories of this in high season, and it seems less than fun.

But where else can you get in the water with wild dolphins and see them eating and swimming right up next to you?

The tour I chose kicked off with snorkeling near Mnemba Island. This island actually belongs to Bill Gates so you can only snorkel around it.

The corals around are quite dead, but you do see some fish and the water is that famous Zanzibar-turquoise you may only see in brochures, filters, or somewhere like the Maldives.

The tour brings you to spot dolphins next, but be aware you’ll be ‘chasing’ them to get a good view.

If you want to jump in at the right time, you won’t be given a life vest.

You should be a good swimmer to see the dolphins. But it’s well worth it, especially to hear their gentle clicks as they communicate underwater.

2. DIY cocktails at Upendo with a view of The Rock

View from Upendo House beach club, overlooking the famous ‘Rock’ restaurant

Upendo means ‘love’ in Swahili. I didn’t ‘love’ The Rock — the famous, Instagram-able restaurant you can only get to by boat on high tide.

Personally, I thought the drinks and food were overpriced (and didn’t blow me away). Expect to pay $100+ for a meal and drinks at The Rock.

Instead, what you could do is grab drinks at Upendo Beach Club opposite The Rock. They even have a pool and sunbeds you can reserve for the day for about $10-$15.

The food at Upendo is delicious and you can even make your own cocktail. Plus, you get the same view as visitors to The Rock.

I did both The Rock and Upendo and didn’t see a big difference in terms of view, but food and drinks are definitely better (and make more fiscal sense) at Upendo.

3. Catch the tide at Mtende Beach in the South

Mtende Beach

Mtende Beach is the most beautiful beach in Zanzibar, but it does require some sort of private transport. I had a car, but you could also hire a boda-boda (motorbike). Dallas (local buses) won’t go all the way.

Mtende Beach is in a little enclave. Sometimes there won’t even be a beach if the tide comes in.

In Zanzibar, tide is everything! This changes about three times a day. You can download tide apps or go online to double-check.

4. Spot monkeys endemic to Zanzibar at Jozani Forest

Red Colobus monkeys are endemic to Zanzibar

These red and black colobus monkeys aren’t found anywhere else in the world!

And there are plenty of them roaming around Jozani Forest so you can easily get your photo op or just stare in wonder at their behaviors (be warned you’re not allowed to take photos from the road, you have to actually go into the forest and pay for that).

The forest is a protected nature reserve, so walking around is equally special.

Your guide will point out trees like oak and eucalyptus and take you through trails or off the beaten path to find the monkeys.

5. Kitesurf at Paje Beach (or just watch them go!)

View of kitesurfers from Oxygen Bar, Paje

So I didn’t kitesurf — guilty.

BUT I did enjoy watching kitesurfers from Oxygen Bar on the Paje strip (conveniently during happy hour).

There’s no mistaking the beauty of Paje beach and it’s limitless kitesurfing opportunities. It’s one of the best beaches in the world for kitesurfing, but you do need a couple of days of training to be certified for the open water.

It’s a beautiful sport to watch, and all the bars on the beach look over the water so you can enjoy the view.

Try The Nest too on the same strip! The food here is totally vegan and the hotel is built into the trees.

For more of a night out, you could even bar-hop along the strip, starting at the nightclub Jambo and ending at B4.

5. Swim in an ancient cave at Kuva Cave

Kuva Cave

If you are staying around Paje or Jambiani, it’s easy to get to three caves in the neighboring area:

  1. Congoman Cave
  2. Kuva Cave
  3. Swahili Cave

Kuva Cave is the only one you can swim in (Congoman is more of an ‘adventure’ cave with dry cave diving. However, the entrance does have a little swimming pool you can pay to use on your way out).

Kuva has the clearest water and is the most accessible from the road. If you have a car or boda-boda, be warned that you’ll be bumping along the off-road when driving to these caves.

At Kuva, not only can you swim, but they play you traditional music at the top of the cave, so you’re paying not more than $8 for both a swim and some music.

7. Enjoy a traditional Swahili dinner and music at Emerson on Hurumzi

what to do in zanzibar
Emerson on Hurumzi

Because all the East African slave trade went through Zanzibar, Stone Town has a rich cultural history where many East African and Arab traditions intersect.

The hotel and restaurant at Emerson on Hurumzi probably represent this the best.

There are two Emerson hotels (Spice and Hurumzi), both with Swahili-style rooms that are mostly open-roofed and have a bathtub in the room itself.

I stayed at Emerson on Hurumzi and felt like an Arabian princess in her Sultan’s palace.

The dinner at Emerson on Hurumzi is on their rooftop, so be sure to get there for sunset. You sit on pillows and carpeted floor, and 5 courses are brought out at $40 per person.

The meal is delicious, with fish, naan bread, daal, greens, etc., (the menu changes every week). You also have the privilege of listening to traditional Stone Town music while you eat.

Right next to Emerson on Hurumzi is the Princess Zayyida Museum. Otherwise known as ‘Emily Reute’, Princess Zayyida was the daughter of a Sultan and his concubine and later wrote the famous Memoirs of an Arabian Princess.

Worth going to see but it does require a lot of reading. Since I stayed at the hotel, they actually let me in for free!

8. Visit the slave market in Stone Town

The slave market in Stone Town is an absolute must to understand and respect the history oz Zanzibar’s slave trade.

It’s a heavy experience, but one you can’t miss.

Get yourself a guide since the Church doesn’t have any explanations. You can tip them at the end. There is, however, a long explanation inside the museum part where you can read up on everything from the history of the slave trade to its adoption in mainstream Zanzibari culture today.

Stone Town is also home to many old buildings that are worth visiting if that’s your thing. For example, The Hamamni Persian Baths, Maruhubi palace ruins, and the Arab Fort.

9. Feed a one-hundred-year-old tortoise on Prison Island

what to do in zanzibar
Boat to Prison Island

Prison Island is indeed a bit of a tourist trap. But my highlight here was seeing and interacting with the ancient tortoises that own the land!

There are also peacocks hanging around so it definitely made it to my pinch-me moments.

If you walk to the back of the island where there used to be a civilian bridge, you even have a view of a garden of starfish (another moment of absolute delight).

7 hidden gems in Zanzibar as a bonus!

The fish curry at Africana is to die for!
  1. Try the fish curry at Africana in Nungwi (it’s to DIE for! It’s also a really fun club in the evening so double-win)
  2. Drink a spiced coffee at Zanzibar Coffee House in Stone Town with real Zanzibar coffee beans and spices from the region
  3. Dance with your feet in the sand at Jambo in Paje
  4. Enjoy the sunset at Kae Kae Funk in Michamvi for a more ‘local’ experience
  5. Learn about butterflies at the Zanzibar Butterfly Sanctuary
  6. Hang out at the Floating Bar off the port in Stone Town to feel like a pirate (you can even jump in from their makeshift diving board)
  7. Go to Cocobello in Kendwa on Wednesday night for a club night like no other (think: costumes and stage dancing)

That’s all folks

I had the privilege of visiting many tourist spots in Zanzibar, including staying in a quieter part of the island (Michamvi) towards the end of my trip.

I can only thank the friendly, open people of Zanzibar for providing me with these 9 pinch-me moments. Zanzibaris preserved their island spirit in such an authentic way that makes you want to throw your worries out the window.

But as tourism increases every year, I feel lucky that I experienced the island in low season, without too much hustle and bustle and fighting for space.

I would hope that, as more people visit the island, you also cherish the people and their customs. It’s through this gentle appreciation and celebration of Zanzibar’s culture that we can continue tourism that is eco-friendly, rich in learning, and with many more pinch-me moments for whoever you are and wherever you’re from!

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Nikole

Interested in identity politics, and the stories that make us human. Personal blog. See copywriting services at https://nikolewintermeier.online/.